11 January 2013, 02:42 PM IST
Alleluia! A star is born. Good ole Shakespeare was right, when he thundered "What's in a name?" For sure, this unpretentious, moderately-priced star is misleadlingly named. The brand new Café Sundance shares nothing with the late Sundance (RIP), except its name and space in Churchgate. The menu is entirely different, as is the management and the chef. But it is honest, direct and comforting; like the three generations of guests today. They share a passion for food and fashion, bubbly young Aditi loves dancing and singing too, while her mother, fashion entrepreneur Nisha Sharma, moved to Delhi only to wow it with her successful garment factory which supplies to prominent stores. This is obviously in her genes because her mother, Nina Vasa, has not only been successfully creating garments for decades, but also the best cheesecakes. After a long and leisurely lunch, "We loved every single dish here" they chorused and like Arnie Schwarzenegger, we all added "We'll be back".
AMBIANCE
Gone are the erstwhile Sundance's orange mascot with the cowboy hat and rundown chairs. The two levels of this small 55-seater are spruced up, bright cream walls, glassed show kitchen, wooden tables and chairs, a giant backlit wall rack stacked with vintage odds and ends and comic books complete the charm.
FOOD
Having enjoyed (most of) the lunch, I pop in unannounced for a solitary dinner too (am delighted to bump into my twitter foodie buddy Roxanne Bamboat). None of the old Ninja Turtle Burgers and Indian Chinese, but whoa! What burgers, dogs and sliders here. Plenty of other café staples, such as sandwiches, pastas, pizzas and salads. For me, the sliders (`100 each) (especially the moist, flavoursome Pork Belly Slider with star anise and barbecue sauce) work the magic. True blue German Frankfurters made juicier with American mustard, ketchup are enlivened with relish, jalapenos and gherkins, be it the classic Hot Dog, or the delightful Bacon and Cheese Dog.
Veggies go for the Portobello Mushroom Burger. The juicy Tenderloin Burger, Cajun Chicken Burger (oozing cheese in its centre) and the Fish and Chips Burger (with the tang of Bengali kasundi mustard) come out tops. The gifted 28-year-old chef Mikhail Shahani (who also runs Ketan Kadam's Two One Two Bar & Grill) is always there. Happily, veggies are taken care of, the four-tiered Vegetarian Lasagna as good as that in Two One Two. Ask for the side of the steamed Corn on the cob (with parsley butter and nimbu and mirchi) and outstanding Aglio Olio Angel Hair Pasta. Chorizo Pizza, Mediteranean grilled prawns and the addictive Barbecue Chicken Wings are worth trying too. As is the Cheesecake with its crunch of digestive biscuits and the dense, Ecuadorian Chocolate Truffle (only at dinner).
MINUS POINTS
Packed and noisy. To make matters worse, they don't take reservations. Café Sundance has additional drawbacks, the tables are placed too close to each other. Some of the mains are heaped over with sauce (Pot Roasted Chicken, Rawas) as is the Spinach Ravioli. Beef Strogonoff lacks punch. The option of whole wheat buns and rolls (for the burgers and dogs) is needed. Many desserts are unavailable.
MY POINT
It is centrally located, has a well-stocked bar, is open through the day (8 am to midnight). Serves affordably priced (Avg dish `395) comfort food, has a cheery newspaper menu and the bill is presented in a Jughead comic. But it's not about fussy gimmicks, the kitchen is the focal point, and Café Sundance is ultimately about eating more than anything else. I applaud their gift for breathing fresh life into familiar genres, for grafting the present onto the past. Jughead khush hua!
FOODLINE
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READERS RECOMMEND
* Chandra recommends Madhu Mess run by Madhu Aunty in a slum opp IIT Powai, Gate no 1. It's frequented by IITian from decades for idlis, medu wada and egg dosas. Timings: 4 am to 10 am.
* Pooja Parmar supplies homemade hand-ground spices, undhiya, beawar til papdi, gazak and revdi.
Ph: 98194 24684.
* Rinku Amit Gokarn specialises in to customised cakes — Novelty Cakes, Birthdays and Weddings Cakes.
Ph: 99208 63063.
* Grace specialises in all sorts of designer boxes and bags for chocolates, brownies, mithais, and sweets. Baby Shower, Birth announcements;
Ph: 9819807996.
QUERIES
* Yash Popat wants to know where can he can get White Hot Chocolate Powder in Mumbai.
* Mr Parikh needs a Jain tiffin in Vile Parle (E).
* Ashish is currently looking for someone who can supply him chicken (boiled/semi-cooked) on daily/weekly basis for two persons in and around Bandra.
Times food guide
Café Sundance,
Ground Floor, Eros Building, Churchgate.
Call: 022-2202 6212
Timings: Open 8 am to midnight
Rating: * Food: 4 Service: 3.5 * Décor: 3.5
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