09 May 2013, 02:02 PM IST
When it comes to Everest, there are three things that matter-altitude, weather and your mountaineering skills. What about the Sherpas? Without them, it is simply not possible to be on the mountain, leave alone climbing to the top. I wonder all the time, how these hardy men perform such unbelievably incredible tasks at high altitude. Mind you, these are not just men who go up and down the mountain, make the Khumbu Icefall accessible and stock high camps and be with you on the summit push. They are possessed with acute mountaineering wisdom and years of experience on the Big E that they disburse when it comes to chalking your Summit plan. Most expedition leaders consult their peers and professional mountain weather forecast organisations for the summit window but it is always reliable to talk to the Sherpas who open the routes to high camps and thereby have a pulse on the weather on Everest. I can tell you about our plan. While it is not cast on stone, but depending on the weather this is what we intend to do. The team has already gone up the Icefall twice. We will go up the mountain one last time before our final acclimatisation climb. Like most expeditions, we too would want to keep our trips across the Khumbu Icefall to a minimum. On the final acclimatisation climb, we plan to sleep at Camp II (6800 M), go up to Camp III (7400 M), sleep for a night, come back to Camp II and sleep for a night before heading back to Base Camp and wait for the summit push. In the meanwhile, our Sherpa staff have already left Base Camp to stock Camp III and Camp IV, located at South Col at 8000 M. Once they are done, they get back to Base Camp to climb with the team for the summit push. Talking to a lot of Sherpas from other expeditions, it looks like that the we would be ready for the summit push during the later part of the second week of May. Last year, the first party went up the summit on May 19. I was discussing with Col. Sharma and Wng. Cmdr. Kutty last night since the first ascent on the May 28, 1953, the summit window has been pushed by two weeks, blame it on global warming or waiting for the spirits that guard Chomolungma grant permission. But whatever it is, you can only be on Everest if the mountain wants you to be there, says Rafiq. It may sound a bit weird but true.
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