15 November 2013, 04:10 PM IST
Dear Sachin (aka Tendliya/ Sach/ Master), so what if I'm not a cricket fan? But like the rest of the world, I am also paying a tribute to you. The reason? I am bowled over by your being a dyed-in-the-drool foodie (you even had your own restaurant near the Gateway of India). And so, in this historic week, we dine at Mumbai's newest, two day-old restaurant, and dedicate the review to you. And sometimes, fact is even more fabulous than fiction, because in this same week of November 1989, you made your debut. And it was then that both Salil Ankola, swashbuckling cricketer and actor, and Ayaz Memon, highly respected TV host and author, were with you in your very first Test match in Karachi. Nobody would've dreamt that the 16 year old boy (who loved food, especially seafood – everything from bombil to Peking duck; and Kapil Dev's wife's chicken curries) would turn into the legend you are today. While Salil (was your tour-roommate) and debuted as the fastest bowler, Ayaz spent a month and a half covering your first match-series, and has the fondest memories of you. As does Salil, who can never forget how you watched his TV shows. So here we are then cheering you, our cricketing icon and also a foodie-extraordinaire. What better way to do it than in Mumbai's newest-ever restaurant?
FOOD…TEST-ING TIMES
VFM… Value for money fare (Rs 1,200 meal for two) in the swanky, glassed in high-ceilinged India Bulls centre, pretty much sums up the global fare here. We eat our way through the predictable kind of Global buffet (Rs 530 AI) Kung Pao Chicken Penang, Soup, Salad, Starters, Live Pasta Station etc. The aldente pasta surprises and it is the perfectly sauced penne Arrabiata which comes up tops. The live stations change (Kawakswe, fried chicken etc).
We are most delighted with our a la carte dish of medium-rare beef (Rs 350), crusted with fresh coriander pink and green pepper and grilled on a lava stone.
Starters of deepfried mushrooms oozing cheese, onion rings, spicy-sweet-saucy chicken wings, bacon-wrapped chicken are adequately made. The scarmoza stuffed flavoursome chicken, crisp fish 'n' chips are equally good. Though the desserts are outsourced, the soft cheesecake, tiered chocolate mousse are both good. Plenty of sandwiches (okayish, multi grain spicy chicken one). Sunday brunch (Rs 689)serves up 3 live stations.
MINUS POINTS… LBW
We need more dishes for veggies, (only three mains and one was unavailable. The over-cooked cottage cheese steak took really long to be served). Overdone rawas, dryish tiramisu and acoustics which do not absorb the noise, are the minus points here.
DÉCOR… THE TURF
Walk into the glassed in, gleaming lobby of One India Bulls and into this L-shaped airport-lounge look-alike cafe. Wooden table, tiny bookshelves with cookbooks and Brittanicas. Humdrum, but pleasant surroundings.
SCORE CARD
D'Bell's hugely advertised café and lounge bar opened on November 9th. It's emergence belongs to Mumbai's boomlet-trend of large, fashionable places in commercial buildings (India Bulls and BKC). The lunch buffet and global a la carte menu offer dishes that can be patchy, while some make the leap (eg pepper crusted steak). Open through the day (fully-stocked bar), a diner can assemble an enjoyable meal in the contemporary dining room.
It's the VFM pricing which makes it a worth visiting neighborhood place. We raise a toast to welcome this eatery and a bigger one for our foodie and global legend. Cheers!
Times food guide
D'Bell
Tower 2B, Lobby Level, One Indiabulls Center, Jupiter Mills Compound, Elphinstone
Call: 022-6537 4666
Timings: 8 am to 1.30 am
Price: Meal for two is Rs 1,200
Rating:
Food: 3.5
Service: 3.5
Décor: 3
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