Restaurant review: Mi maratha (Maharashtrian)

Written By Unknown on Jumat, 29 November 2013 | 21.17

Rashmi Uday Singh
29 November 2013, 04:19 PM IST

I admit. My work powers me with energy, fuels me with joy and fills me with hymns of gratitude to the divine. And it's all about the thrill of discovery, the joy of going into uncharted territories. And each time the gusto and excitement is of the same intensity, whether it's writing India's first city guide to restaurants, or the world's first vegetarian guide to Paris, or chancing upon this tiny Maharashtrian eatery in Parel.

Mi Maratha is a find. When passion and homestyle recipes come together, there is sweet music. It is sheer coincidence that the 59-year-old owner Arvind Haldipur, is an ex-musician  who has worked on many a Bollywood hit. Tucked away in the bowels of  Parel, this no-frills 28-seater eatery (a tiny wash basin, fridge all crammed into it) has me delighted. A digitally printed canvas of Marathas enlivens the plain and simple eatery. I sip on the garlicky and superb sol kadi and dig in to my overflowing thali and eat non-stop. I use my fingers to scoop the yielding, soft fish and its crisp tangy rawa coating  (superlative fried Bangda and Surmai), lick the  mild Pandhara Rassa off my fingers. The coconut-infused  Prawn curry is to kill for. GSB fare, made to the owner's family recipes, be it Chicken Sukha, Tisrya Masala, Kolambi Bhat or Bharleli Vangi. Ambat Tikhat (sour and spicy) used to be made by the owner's wife and brought here, but now the cooks have mastered it. Take your pick of thalis; the pomfret thali  offers  bowls of ambat tikhat Sol Kadi and Koshambir, a large rava-fried pomfret, three  chapattis  (vade or bhakri) and  rice. And for veggies, here is the surprise… flavoursome potatoes spiked with jeera and rai  and made mellow with ghee.

Only two dishes disappoint, the Bhareli Vangi and the Mutton Sukha. The rest of the lustily spiced meal (and VFM pricing meal for two Rs 200-400 ) has me doing a jig with delight… even more because though Mumbai is the capital of Maharashtra, there is a paucity of Maharashtrian eateries.

Rating:
Food: 3.5
Service: 3.5
Décor: 2.5

Times food guide
Mi Maratha
Iqbal Manzil,
Next to A to Z industrial estate, GK Marg, Lower Parel.
Call 98190 81711
Meal for two costs: Rs 200-400


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