16 May 2014, 08:00 AM IST
I confess. I'm a dessertaholic and a chocoholic. So, I conduct three tasting sessions at this new French-inspired Patisserie, Chocolaterie and tea salon. I land up at La Folie, when I go to do a clothes trial (her boutique is next to La Folie) to the dynamic and multi-talented Shaina NC's boutique. This to walk the ramp (with Vivek Jain) for the mammoth 7,000 audience, celebrity studded fund raiser for Cancer patients for which Shaina made time in spite of her hectic electioneering. I do a marathon-hour long tasting with patissieur extraordinaire, Cordon Bleu trained Firoza Moos (pay bill of Rs 5,015). The third tasting feedback is on twitter and instagram.
THE FRENCH CONNECTION
Another confession... I don't know the French language at all, in spite of spending years in Paris while writing my food book. So interpreting "La Folie's" French words is tough, but I've had the good fortune to interview and taste all of Sanjana Patel's French mentor's Alain Ducasse creations. Less than two months ago, I not only ate Pierre Herme's patisserie but also flew down to Delhi to anchor Pierre Herme's interview for a national magazine's conclave.
DÉCOR
Wedged into Kala Ghoda, La Folie is a small, stark space with tables and a dark wood bench running along one wall. It seats 8 to 10. Quite a contrast to the ornate French La Duree with it's jewel box looks.
FOOD
There's a catwalk here too... behind the glassed off counter, gleaming superstar desserts preen and strut... pralines, truffles, macarons, entremets (that French for textural layered desserts) there's a huge choice of teas and coffee too.
Hero #1 is the"100% Chocolat" dense and moist with a dark chocolate cake base, crispy praline, bitter chocolate mousse capped off with chocolate fondant. Heroine #1 Rouge Velour (big fat, bright red rose) moist, zesty lemony sponge cake with strawberry compote Supporting hero #1 Infinite Caramel seasalt cream with hazelnut praline and milk chocolate. Child star#1 Colorful candy cake layered with mentos, eclair nutties and marshmallow.
Full marks to La Folie's slim chocolate squares... single origin Venezuelan and Equador chocolate truffles. Macarons (lemon grass and basil, pop rock candy) delight.
MINUS POINTS
Though they say they open at 11am, at both our tastings, they were not open till 12 noon. A lot of the menu is not available... Black Forest, tarts, Viennoiserie, cookies, tea time cakes and hot chocolate. Some of the non-chocolatey patisserie, like the Raspberry Litchi Damask, Mango Lemon Pabana are too gelatinous for my liking. Some complain about the high price.
MY POINT
La Folie's Sanjana's French-grounded creations bridge the classically saucy decadence of the past and the progressive derring-do of a new generation.
She treads the right middle ground between hyper-imaginative artistry and molten chocolate pandering. Of course it is expensive (`215 to `235 for a pastry, `75 for a macaron) but worth it. Now, if only the whole menu was available, the opening timing fine tuned, some of the desserts less gelatinous. I fell in love with it gradually, not all at once. The experience had a sweetness, all its own.
La Folie
16, Commerce House, Rope Walk Lane, Next to Trishna, Kala Ghoda, Fort. Timings 11 am – 11 pm
Call 022 - 6772 2181
Rating: * Food: 4 * Service: 3.5 * Décor: 3
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