17 December 2013, 04:24 PM IST
We Brits are classically known for a national staple diet consisting of meals made up of 'meat and two veg' – simple, plain fare, where one of those veggies is highly likely to be some type of potato preparation. On Sunday afternoons, the boat is traditionally pushed out and the whole family gathered for a full 'roast dinner'.
And the title of 'British roast with the most' must surely go to Christmas dinner, where the dining table groans beneath the weight of golden roast potatoes, herbed winter root vegetables, spiced red cabbage, stuffing, sausages in bacon, and a gamut of gravies and sauces. But the real star of this fulsome feast is a plump, scrumptious turkey.
Despite the UK being home to numerous farms devoted to rearing the bird, turkey is a treat that turns up merely once a year for most. It's synonymous with the season, and Christmas cannot be complete without it. However keen we are to gobble up global gastronomy, when it comes to a festive feast at an Indian restaurant, many still feel the need to feed on that particular protein.
Chef Cyrus Todiwala certainly knows how to get the best from that beast. As a rare advocate for year-round use, his turkey dishes are a triumph. Festive menus at both Cafe Spice Namaste and Mr Todiwala's Kitchen's feature the bird, but the chef is also keen to spread the word on turkey's versatility beyond a mere Christmas centrepiece.
The trouble with turkey is its flavour; or lack thereof; simply too subtle for some. So, for Cyrus and his fellow Indian chefs, Christmas is the perfect period to demonstrate how superbly it takes to subcontinental spicing, marinating and methodology. Despite turkey's tendency toward dryness, nothing about Cafe Spice Namaste's chilli fry or Parsi-style tikka hariyali will stick in your throat.
Talking of tikka, it's a popular option as a turkey treatment in British Indian restaurants this year. Gymkhana, the hot new opening from Trishna's Karam Sethi, has it on the menu, as does Sabbir Karim's Salaam Namaste; Carom; and the 1875 - where it's southern-spiced. Tikka's also taken to the streets, served up by hip mobile vendors Rola Wala. Back indoors, restaurant Babur is teaming its tikka with traditional roasted chestnuts.
Tradition is the thing, too, at the 1875, which prides itself on using local produce whilst keeping cooking faithful to authenticity. The Raj-inspired festive repast features an Anglo-Indian spin on British bacon-wrapped turkey. Birmingham's Itihaas is also wrapping up the bird; albeit in pastry, not protein; serving minced turkey and cranberry samosas as a stylish starter.
At 'Indian market kitchen' Potli, the turkey preparation proves so painstaking that the restaurant requires 48-hours' notice for its tikka masala for two; a dish from the 'Christmas roasts' menu. Dishoom's turkey raan is just as lengthy a labour of love, the decadent dish accompanied by all the (Desi-fied) trimmings - Bombay potatoes, masala winter greens, and spiced cranberry chutney.
The Asian Curry Awards' 'Innovative Chef of the Year', Sabbir Karim, is applying his Indian innovation to turkey, too -goading his to go Goan. At his Salaam Namaste, a firey jungle curry is inspired by the subcontinent's smallest state; whilst over at sister venue Namaaste Kitchen, masaladar vindaloo gravy brings the bird to life. At Mithas, meanwhile, the turkey is treated to the tandoori treatment.
Thoroughly tired of turkey? Super-chefs Vivek Singh and Atul Kochhar have flown in a different direction with another species, evidently feeling that what's sauce for the turkey is equally great for the goose; confident it will be gobbled up by those who can't bear turkey-bird but still want to get in a festive flap. Whatever's on your table, wherever you are, I wish you a very merry, well-fed Christmas.
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